Vietnam, Part 2: Sailing Bái Tử Long Bay and Falling for Artsy Hoi An (Again)

Karen Cristello

Jul 1, 2025

6 min read

Dragon legends, a cave that felt like a Star Wars set, and tai chi at sunrise on the deck of a junk boat — and that was all before I reached Hoi An.

Sailing Into Dragon Country

Day three took us out of Hanoi and gave us a taste of what the National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures itinerary is all about. On the way to the coast, we stopped at World of Pearls to see how pearls are actually produced and harvested, and yes, there was a touristy shop waiting for us at the end. Then, naturally, more coffee, because priorities.

That afternoon we boarded a traditional-style wooden junk boat for an overnight cruise, something I'd wanted to do for a long time. Yay for checking off bucket-list items! The crew was small but mighty and being excellent cooks didn’t hurt, either.

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Rather than the more famous, more crowded Ha Long Bay, we sailed Bái Tử Long Bay, its quieter neighbor just to the northeast. Same dramatic limestone karsts, same emerald water (on a sunnier day), but a fraction of the crowds. Access here has historically been more restricted, so it still feels wonderfully relatively undiscovered.

Fun fact: Local legend has it that the islands were formed by a mother dragon and her children, sent down to help the Vietnamese fight off invaders. Hạ Long (“descending dragon”) marks where the mother landed, and Bái Tử Long (“bowing son of the dragon”) is named for her children.

Lunch on board was incredible (I found a new favorite soy sauce!), and then it was time to get in the water for kayaking to Trinh Nữ Cave. Love, love, love kayaking and caves.

The junk boat dining room, kitchen, and staff member who seemed to be in charge (ugh, I forgot his name). We had a nice chat while I sat next to him, watching him carve this watermelon. He also taught our tai chi class the next morning. And some shots from dinner. Everything was so flavorful and beautifully garnished. Loved this soy sauce and found it later at KP International Market in Rancho Cordova. (© 2025, Karen Cristello)

Dinner was outstanding and the karaoke that followed was… entertaining. No, I did not torture everyone by singing but was an enthusiastic supporter! That night, I fell asleep to the boat gently rocking, with nary a worry to be had.

Tai Chi, Star Wars, and Onward to Hoi An

Day four started with tai chi on the top deck, watching the karsts catch the morning light. (Those who know me: No, I can’t believe I got up so early, either.) Then we hiked up into Sửng Sốt Cave (“Surprise Cave”), the largest cave in the whole bay. The cavernous chambers, dramatic stalactites and stalagmites, and shafts of light made it feel otherworldly. I felt like I was on a Star Wars set.

It was a short hike up to Sửng Sốt Cave in Ha Long Bay; this dangling piece of rock looks like a hand; a view of the bay from the cave; in the cave, I felt like I was on another planet. (© 2025, Karen Cristello)

Back on board for one more delicious lunch, and then it was time to say goodbye to our floating home. On the way to Hoi An we stopped at Hong Ngoc Fine Art, where disabled artisans hand-embroider astonishingly detailed “paintings.” It’s amazing how realistic some of them looked; these people were truly talented! I debated buying a piece, but my walls are pretty full already and it was over my budget.

We rolled into Hoi An that evening, and I was so excited to revisit the artsy city that was my favorite in 2001.

A Full Day in the Yellow City

Hoi An's Old Town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, and it's easy to see why: This was one of Southeast Asia's busiest trading ports from the 15th to 19th centuries, drawing Chinese, Japanese, Dutch, and later French merchants, and their influence is still stamped all over the yellow-washed shophouses and narrow lanes. Another fun fact: In Vietnam, yellow symbolizes royalty, happiness, wealth, and good fortune. It also absorbs less tropical heat than darker colors, keeping buildings cooler.

I checked into Belle Maison Hadana, which instantly became my favorite hotel of the whole trip for design alone. Then we did another market tour, and this time my phone was alive for it, so I actually got photos!

An Oodles of Noodles chef, showing us Vietnamese ingredients. We got to wear these hats on the "noodle tour." Different kinds of noodles and one of our group members making a soft rice wrap. (© 2025, Karen Cristello)

Then came another incredible Planeterra-supported stop: Oodles of Noodles, a restaurant and social enterprise run by STREETS. They support disadvantaged youth through hospitality training; most continue on to 4- and 5-star hotels and restaurants. The video they showed us about these young people and the program was so touching, it made me a little verklempt. We learned how to make rice noodles and rice crackers, which we tasted with a slightly spicy anchovy dip. Naturally, we then sampled noodles at three more places, because apparently one noodle experience per day wasn't enough. Yikes, but also, no regrets.

Son then took us on an orientation walk through Old Hoi An, and I had a new sundress custom-made at Yaly Couture. Hoi An is famous for this, with tailors who can turn around a custom piece in a day or two. Of course, it was much cheaper in 2001, when I got about six items for under $100.

In the afternoon, we had free time, so I signed up for a lantern-making class at Tieng Vong Pho Lantern Workshop, because I can't resist gettin’ crafty. Hoi An's silk lanterns are basically the town's signature — they light up the streets and the river every night, and the craft has been passed down for generations. It was fun to choose my own mixed fabrics and shape, and now I have a souvenir that reminds me both of the experience and of Hoi An.

After three rounds of noodles I wasn't exactly starving, so dinner was apple pie and a salt coffee, which doesn't actually taste salty, at Avocado Resto & Café. Then I just wandered — bought some pottery, admired the beautifully preserved architecture, soaked in the ambiance — before planting myself at a riverfront café for a glass (okay, two) of refreshing vin blanc and people-watching.

Here's the big difference from my 2001 visit: Back then, Hoi An was a quiet, artsy little town. I still have a painting on my wall of a boy riding an ox that I bought straight from the artist for five bucks. The atmosphere felt peaceful, almost mysterious. Now, while it's still got plenty of art and craft, it's louder and a lot more of a party atmosphere, with boats cruising the river all lit up, some blasting cheesy music. I guess nothing good stays a secret forever. It still holds a special place in my heart, though.

Next up: Vietnam, Part 3: Saigon History and a Last Splash Down the Mekong.

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The Talefeathers Blog

Vietnam, Part 2: Sailing Bái Tử Long Bay and Falling for Artsy Hoi An (Again)

Sailing Into Dragon Country

Tai Chi, Star Wars, and Onward to Hoi An

A Full Day in the Yellow City

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